Champagne Travel on a Beer Budget

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When it comes to Thailand, there are several destinations that seem to get all the press; Bangkok, Phuket, Chiang Mai and Ko Samui. The last is one of the better known of the southern islands and has long been the starting point for island-hoppers and destination of choice for honeymooners and the Euro Jet Set. Ko Samui has a lot going for it, but if you think of it as the classic It Girl of the Thailand islands, then Ko Pha Ngan is the very cool, slightly rebellious younger sister.

Just 45 minutes by ferry from Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan is best known for its monthly infamous party celebrating the full moon. Urban mythology insists that this party institution began as a secret gathering of backpackers-in-the-know. Pioneers of island-hopping the untouched beaches of Thailand’s south, these travelers would gather under the full moon on secret beaches to do… well, let the tales of primal debauchery speak for themselves. But as a character in Alex Garland’s best selling book The Beach laments, “There is no way you can keep it out of Lonely Planet, and once that happens it’s countdown to doomsday”. And so was the case for the original Full Moon Party, once word got out, along came the commercialization of the party, as did every gap-yearer. And come they did, in hordes. These days, islands in Thailand’s south host parties to celebrate the full moon, half moon or any slither of a moon. But Ko Phga Ngan remains the official owner of the modern day incarnation of the Full Moon Party.

For a few days each month before the full moon, the ferries groan under the weight of extra passengers, the hotels raise their prices and every where you look, holiday makers are clutching their ‘buckets’. Plastic containers filled with juice, soft drink, multiple straws and of course, your alcoholic spirits of choice. The excitement increases until the night itself and the party is no short affair, with after parties for the after parties. This night can be the memory of a lifetime, or end incredibly messy (Full Moon-induced psychosis has temporarily claimed the sanity of more than just a  few party-goers). As one Aussie ex-pat living on the island explained to me ‘This island is a place of peace and calm most of the time, and the party can be a great. But some months, we witness things that truly are Sodom & Gomorrah’.

But chances are, you have heard the stories of the Full Moon Party, you’ve seen the photos, heck you may even have the t-shirt, but what of Ko Pha Ngan aside from this monthly ritual? It is a shame to never see all that this island has to offer, because one aspect of it steals the limelight. Ko Pha Ngan boasts breathtaking beaches, inland waterfalls, secluded accommodation options for those seeking escape, plenty of chilled-out partying hangs, indulgent spas and casual laid-back dining.

So, what should you do with a couple of days in Ko Pha Ngan sans Full Moon Party? I’m glad you asked…

Day 1
Chances are you will arrive on Haad Rin beach (home to the Full Moon Party) via ferry from Ko Samui so you might as well spend a night or two there. Check in to your accommodation and then get yourself a massage. There are lots of great day spas and no need to fear visiting a ’special’ massage parlor, Ko Pha Ngan is no Patpong. Once you’re relaxed, hit the shops for island-appropriate attire. Now, without further ado, it is time to hit the beach. People watch, play volleyball with gorgeous young Israelis (a visit to Thailand leaves you wondering if anyone under 25 is left in Israel) and float in the calm waters.

Now that you have scoped the scene, hit one of the handful of bookstores and buy that book you’ve always meant to read. If you don’t slow down enough to do it whilst in Ko Pha Ngan, you never will. Take a disco nap if you need one before heading out for dinner. There are a lot of generic little eateries in Haad Rin (all screening American sitcoms) but if you head back from the beach and up into the hills a little, there are a few small family-run restaurants that will feed you well for little.

End your night back down on Haad Rin beach with a beer or a bucket and chill out on the grass mats watching the fire dancers.

Day 2
Get up early, before the heat sets in, and start the trek from Haad Rin to Haad Tien beach. You’ll find somewhat vague directions on the web (all part of the fun), but always double how long people tell you the trek will take. Pack plenty of water and don’t get lost, there are green dots painted on some of the trees to guide you.

Haad Tien is the perfect remedy for busy Haad Rin, and is where cashed up hippies go to chill. Once at Haad Tien, set up digs for the day at The Sanctuary Resort. This wellness resort offers beautiful day spa packages, yoga classes in the bush, kayak hire and the most scrumptious semi-vegetarian restaurant equipped with hammocks.

If you just can’t tear yourself away from Haad Tien (I’ve let myself get ’stuck’ there for a week before), see if the Sanctuary have some accommodation, enjoy one of the communal meals and you may even be lucky enough to catch a late night jungle party. BYO bongos. Otherwise, catch the boat back to Had Rin and try not to question why you made the trek when the boat ride is so quick and easy.

Day 3
Book yourself into one of the many cruises that circumnavigate the island on a day trip. Pick one according to your tastes - a small, relaxed tour if you just want to see the sights and enjoy some great food or a party cruise if you want to beach hop and thoroughly enjoy a beer or two. I noticed one boat day trip was named after Snoop Dogg, I think it falls in the latter category.
When you return from your day trip, catch the boat from Haad Rin to one of the lesser-known beaches of Ko Pha Ngan. A couple of recommendations include Chalok Lam - picturesque beach at the northern tip of the island, Haad Mae Haad - perfect for diving and snorkeling enthusiasts or Haad Salad - if you’re after a romantic getaway.

As for what happens after Day 3, that’s really up to you. There are plenty more beaches to discover, as well as inland waterfalls, temples, local art and craft - the island is your oyster. I met an English woman who lives on the island and asked her how she came to be there. She said she was travelling around South East Asia and came to Ko Pha Ngan to check out the Full Moon Party and have a look around. She fell in love with the island and hasn’t left since. When I asked her how long ago that was, she replied, ‘Six years’. Consider yourself warned…

Experienced Ko Pha Ngan or planning on visiting? Would love to hear from you in the comments.

Here are some Ko Pha Ngan related posts:

Travelling light without compromising on style - is it possible?

Travel with style in Bangkok

Indulge in a luxury spa experience without the luxury price tag

This entry was posted on Tuesday, April 14th, 2009 at 11:23 am and is filed under Kho Pha Ngan, Ko Samui, Thailand, accommodation, backpacking, budget travel, itineraries, travel, travel planning, value for money. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.